The set-up on a violin is critical to how the instrument sounds and how it plays. And a poor set-up can actually damage a violin, such as sound post fitting too tightly can cause a crack in the top or back (and when that happens you’re looking at a serious repair).
Here’s something that surprises a lot of folks: If you do a good set-up on a violin and then put that instrument away for a number of years, you’ll likely need to redo at least some of the set-up. Why? Because wood is not a totally stable material, and over time the fittings (such as the bridge, soundpost and pegs) will change dimension and no longer fit properly. Therefore, if you have an old violin in the family, we don’t recommend setting it up unless someone plans to actively play it. Store your instrument somewhere safe and away from temperature and humidity extremes and it will be just as well off. We recommend that you store the instrument with the soundpost down and bridge off. Important note: Do not play a violin if the soundpost is down! Read more about Violin Care on our FAQ page.
Here’s an outline of the steps we frequently take to put a violin in “fresh” playing condition. Not every violin will need all of these steps. For example, pegs don’t always have to be replaced; the existing pegs can be refit until there’s not enough wood left to work with. Soundposts are sometimes simply adjusted, not replaced. Some violins will need more. It’s common to have to reglue open seams, replace the tailgut, and possibly even fill and redrill the holes in the pegbox when they become oversized due to repeated refitting.
The Tools
Tools
Knives, chisels, dial caliper, low angle block plane, files, peg shaper & matching reamer, rulers, dividers, etc.)
The Pegs
Reaming the Pegholes
Well fit pegs are critical to ease of tuning. First, the holes in the pegbox are cut to the correct taper with a special reamer. Only enough wood is removed to produce a smooth round surface.
Shaping the Peg
The pegs are cut to the same taper as the holes in the pegbox.
Fitting the Peg
The pegs are reduced in size until the correct length projects from the peghox.
Final Peg Details
Once the pegs fit correctly the ends are trimmed and polished, holes are drilled for the strings and the pegs are lubricated with peg compound.
The Fingerboard
Fingerboard Arch
The fingerboard must be smooth, have the correct arch …
Checking Relief
… and have a slight curve (relief) from end to end.
Dressing the Fingerboard
The fingerboard is scraped, polished and lightly oiled.
The Nut
Marking the Ebony Blank
The nut controls the height and spacing of the strings.
Shaping the New Nut
Filing the nut to the proper curve.
String Spacing
Measuring and marking where the string slots should be.
Filing String Slots
Filing the grooves for the strings.
The Soundpost
Soundpost and Bridge Location
Measuring the location for the soundpost and bridge.
Cutting Soundpost
Cutting the soundpost to length.
Inserting the Soundpost
Inserting the soundpost. A well fit soundpost is critical, both structurally and sonically.
The Bridge
Measuring Thickness
The bridge begins as an oversized “blank,” looking roughly like a bridge. It needs to be fitted to the violin.
Fitting the Feet
The bottom of the bridge, the “feet,” need to fit the arch of the violin top to make good contact.
Marking the Arch
The top of the bridge will be trimmed. The arch is marked with a template.
Planing
Planing the face of the bridge.
The Ankles
Shaping the ankles, another small but significant detail.
String Position
Measuring the positions where the strings will go across the bridge.
Bridge Comparison
A bridge blank is on the left, the finished bridge to the right. A great deal of handwork and detail go into fitting a bridge. The bridge needs to be fit to the specific instrument, and not only affects playability but sound.
Putting It All Together
Positioning Bridge
Positioning the finished bridge and stringing the violin.
Set Up
